3rd time is a charm with Burda?

…At least I’m crossing my fingers on that! I altered the second Simplicity Easy Chic pattern and was totally disgusted with the fit. The 40 is too big, the 38 is still enormous: I literally pinched out 1″ width at the shoulder! On a 38! C’mon… The sleeve cap is rounded, it’s not meant to be inserted flat into a dropped shoulder seam. Then they’d have an excuse, but this–sheesh.

I was ready to give up on American patterns entirely, but Kristine/Beangirl is sending me a moving care package so the jury will stay out 🙂

Plan C: Burda 8332 Asian-style pantsuit It’s almost identical to yesterday’s jacket anyway, but longer.
Hey, can anyone tell me how to put that photo directly into my blog?

Burda’s drafting is really good, so my fingers are crossed. I traced the jacket and altered it this afternoon. Fed up with the droppy shoulder issue, I measured my shoulder directly then compared to the pattern. Size 38. My high bust is a 40 but close enough to a 38. My back length and arm circumference measurements are 38 or less, so I went with it. After altering 3 jacket patterns in 2 days, I’ve finally started altering for length by flat pattern measurements. Eureka! I measured my back waist length (15.5″) and compared to Burda: I need to take off .75″ for the waist to sit at the right spot. It goes so much faster this way. Also, I always end up using a 1cm/ 3/8″ BBA so this time I just threw it in without trying on first. The 38 fits much, much better than SIM’s evil patterns. It calls for shoulder pads, which I normally don’t like, but I’m gonna try them. At worst I’ll trim down the shoulder seam and armscythe if I don’t like the look. BTW I cropped the length to a 55cm back length, which looks good on petites. Show as much leg (length) to look taller. The tunic look that’s in now isn’t for us shorties.


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