Diana Couture gathered tee shirt instructions

Debbie is working on a tee shirt from Diana Couture. Diana Couture is a sewing magazine with easy to sew patterns, and is published in French, German and Dutch… maybe in Italian or Spanish too. Debbie has a German version and had some questions on the instructions, so here are in a simple translation! When I volunteered to help I told her I had the issue in Dutch, but in front of me now it turns out this is the *one* issue I bought in French as the Dutch was sold out. Brussels is 80% francophone so this situation happens a lot. I’m married to a Dutch guy, lived in NL for a year and a half and I’ve been reading Knip Mode monthly for a few years so my sewing Dutch is much better than my sewing French. Here goes nothing!

Model 31 Tee shirt: sizes 40/42, 44/46, 48/50
Back length 56/57/58 cm

Needed:
96% viscose/rayon + 4% elasthane or other stretch fabrics with a soft hand; 1/1/1,10m x 142cm
Vlieseline G 785
Thread: Coats Polyestor

Pieces 18-22, sheet B, red lines

Pattern preparation: To improve the silhouette, we added darts for sizes 48/50. Calculate separately the parameter of the back neck facing (I think they mean to cut a separate back neck facing front the back piece, there is no specific back neck facing piece provided)

Cutting: 18 Back 1. Back neck facing–cut one on fold
19 Front neck facing
20 Front, cut 1 on fold
21 Sleeve cut 2
22 Sleeve band, cut 2 on (lengthwise) fold

The hem and seam allowances must be added before cutting. 3 cm recommended for the hem.

Interface edge of the back neck facing

(Then the usual note on using a zigzag or overlock stitch for stretch fabrics, and to hem with a double needle, cover stitch or zigzag)

Sewing: Sew the darts for size 48/50. Make the neckline: gather the neckline between the marks. RS together, sew the front neck facing to the gathered neckline. Press the seam allowance down. Sew the shoulder seams. Sew the back neck facing to the back along the neckline edges and understitch. Topstitch the facing edge to the back from shoulder to shoulder. Make the sleeves: Gather the lower sleeve area between the markings and sew to the sleeve band. Press the inner sleeve band upward (along the lengthwise fold) and topstitch (or stitch in the ditch) along the sleeve band seam. Sew the sleeve and side seams. Hem the tee shirt.

I’m confused why they advise you to sew the ‘lateral seams’ and the sleeve band in one pass, as it would look cleaner to sew the cuff after the sleeve so the seam allowance would be completely encased.

Hope this helps, Debbie and anyone else who’s interested! xoxo

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